Degustation & Devastation

Michelin Musings

2009-10-19T13:39:00.001-07:00

The annual Michelin Guide for New York and San Francisco has finally arrived. This time brings a lot of anticipation for me because of my personal connection to a few of these places mentioned. I have always respected the Michelin Guide and the validation it bestows upon restaurants around the world. For many, receiving a single Michelin star can define a career and make a single place a travelers destination. Personally, I don't think the guide truly understands the differences in personality, style and essence of each city. You truly can't compare New York and San Francisco which are, in my opinion the two best food cities in America. Is the New York food scene that more advanced than the one in San Francisco? Maybe so, but I can't imagine there being such a huge disparity at the top restaurants. Here are a few of my thoughts...

New York

There are now 5 restaurants rated three stars. Restaurant Daniel was recently awarded a long deserved third star and put in its rightful place amongst the best in the world. I had an incredible experience last winter with PH, filled with a duel degustation, short discourse with Daniel Boulud, visit from my sous-chef friend, seamless table service and classic food executed to perfection. Every three star meal should evoke some kind of emotion. This meal just made me happy to see the constant evolution of a legendary restaurant reborn.

Two Stars for Alto? Really. Did I have a great meal here? No. Was this the best Italian in the city? Not on it's best day. Did I have a solid meal? Yes. I have been to Babbo, Del Posto, L'impero (Scott Conant) and Felidia. Never once in this meal did I feel like there were reaching new heights in Italian cooking or cooking pasta better than Lupa.

Congratulations to Per se, Jean Georges, Daniel, Masa and Le Bernadin. Indeed worth a special journey.

San Francisco

The French Laundry remains the sole three star restaurants in the bay area. Justified? Absolutely. It was surprising to see that Michael Mina lost its two star status with Chef Chris L'hommedieu at the helm. It was not surprising to see that Aqua lost it's stars. The last time Aqua played in the big leagues was in it's heyday with Michael Mina, George Morrone and Ron Siegel.

I have been telling people since the inception of the Michelin Guide San Francisco that Manresa would challenge the French Laundry as the top restaurant in the bay area. This was not their year, but mark my words they will be the next three star. It would have been interesting to see what the restaurant would have received if Chef James Syabout stayed on as Chef de Cuisine for another year.

Cyrus- 2 Stars

I had an extremely inconsistent meal here. I can see the ambition for three stars but can't imagine them reaching the execution and refinement of the worlds best.

Coi- 2 Stars

I went all out. I told the chef to cook for me. As many courses as he had. Single dinner in a dining room full of couples. I wanted to be blown away. I wanted to work here. I respect the chef. On this night, I didn't understand it. On this night, the 15 cooks didn't "wow" me. On this night, I was disappointed because I knew my search for the next restaurant would continue.

Manresa- 2 Stars

Every time I eat there, I remember a dish that moves me in its simplicity or its restraint. I think Chef David Kinch runs an amazing kitchen with his devotion for the best ingredients from the restaurants garden. Was I moved by the French Laundry? No. I am every time I dine at Manresa.

Dining Room at The Ritz Carlton- 1 Star

My favorite Chef and restaurant. This rating for me is personal. Justified? No way. Will it ever change? No. With the dragging economy, the hotel has decided to consolidate a lot of the food operations making the food at the Dining Room a lot less ambitious. When I was there over three years ago, we had an amazing team. We didn't have the brigade of Per se or the stagiere from Ramsay or Ducasse, but we had a close knit team with a wealth of experience and talent. Did we do three star food? On many nights, yes we did. Is it possible to do it consistently when there is one person to control a whole station, prep and execution. No way. If we had a full brigade of commis, stagiere and chef de partie then this would be possible for the food we executed. But Chef Ron loves to have a small, close knit and personal kitchen. A kitchen where we eat together, sweat together and drink as one. A kitchen where the actual chef is cooking alongside you, having fun and laughing while were in the "shits". I will never forget this experience. It has shaped me into the cook I am today and continues to inspire the way I hope to run my brigade.

Right off the plane and onto the eating...

2009-10-17T18:13:00.000-07:00

After a 5 hour flight from Honolulu to LA, a 2 hour layover, a 4 1/2 flight from LA to Chicago, and a 45 minute ride on the Blue Line from O'hare, one would think that I would want to head straight for the nearest bed.

Nope.

I lugged my suitcase, computer, and backpack down the steps of the Damen Ave. stop, and instantly greeted by my brother and a friend who suggested we head straight to Piece, which has become a standard visit when I go to Chicago. We pushed my suitcase a couple of blocks, parked it next to some strollers behind the host stand and sat down for pizza and a beer.

In sharp contrast to deep dish pizzas popular in the city, Piece is home to "traditional New Haven style" pizza, which consists of red sauce topped with oregano, garlic, parmesan cheese and olive oil.

To say it was better than the food I had encountered on the planes and airports would be a gross understatement...

Italian Sausage & Basil Pizza ~ Piece Chicago

Of course that wasn't the end of the eating for the day. After a long awaited nap and some college football, we decided to catch an early dinner at Avec.

Sitting in close quarters at long wooden tables with other patrons makes for an interesting communal atmosphere where diners are almost forced to look at, comment on, and ponder the taste of what nearby diners are ordering and eating.

Farro salad - roasted peppers, rutabaga, crowder peas, fried egg, salsa verde vinaigrette ~ Avec

A nice, hearty 'salad' the egg yolk added some richness and played well with the subtle spice and tanginess of the vinaigrette.

Chrorizo-stuffed medjool dates with smoked bacon and piquillo pepper-tomato sauce ~ Avec

My brother's personal favorite, the sweetness of the dates was not lost behind the saltiness and smokiness from the bacon and chorizo or the spiciness of the piquillo-tomato sauce.

Saffron-marinated chicken thigh with cabbage agridolce, crimini mushrooms, frisee and caraway creme fraiche vinaigrette ~ Avec

Though one might not expect a lot of flavor from a piece of chicken, this dish was a perfect example of how a perfectly cooked piece of chicken (with crispy skin intact, of course) and simple flavors can combine to make a 'complete' dish.

Crispy sweetbreads, house made bread, Nichols farm cherry tomato and comte béchamel ~ Avec

Clean flavors and palate pleasing textures, the flavors of the dish came through and weren't overwhelmed by the rich béchamel sauce.

Pan-roasted mackerel with mint-cured bacon, garbanzos, preserved lemon and nicoise olives ~ Avec

Crispy skin saba and bacon. What's not to like?

Housemade tagliatelle with 'pork,' nichols farm cherry tomatoes and romano beans ~ Avec

Though there was a lot of 'sauce' to this pasta, the pasta was perfectly cooked, the sauce was well seasoned, and didn't feel heavy at all.

A successful first day, I'd have to say, and a perfect way to kick off the trip.

Back from Chicago...

2009-10-05T22:59:00.001-07:00

Street tacos, hot dogs, tortas, italian beef, L2O. Lots more to come, but here's a taste...

one cook, a few burners, four walls and a counter

2009-07-07T17:24:00.000-07:00

I recently had dinner at a very well-known, highly financed restaurant with the chef of Roy's. One diner ordered the chef's tasting menu and we ordered a bunch of appetizers and two entrees. The prices were steep, but the level of service and ingredients justified them. The kitchen is absolutely beautiful, spacious and high-tech. Every possible equipment is at the kitchen's disposal, yet fundamental execution was lacking. The use of salt and simple refinement would have brought a poor meal to the level of a decent one. With all this equipment, a full staff a big money investor, what's going wrong?

My dream is simple 20 seats at a counter, one sous-chef, one morning assistant and a dishwasher. The menu would change daily offering a chef's tasting and a vegetable tasting. I cook for you. I hand you the plates and I explain what went into deciding the menu for that moment. No fancy furniture, basic equipment and a few friends would cook with me. Dining is not the fancy 5-hour table-service, maitre'd laden experience anymore. Dining needs to be more accessible, more personal. Cooking can be soulful, but with perfect execution and refinement. Hopefully this dream can come to fruition in Hawaii. I think Hawaii is ready, hopefully they are ready for my dream.

2009-06-22T00:38:00.000-07:00

My Favorite Restaurants in Honolulu

Sushi Izakaya Gaku

*Everything is great, from sushi/sashimi to the izakaya selections. The atmosphere is nice and calm and it's still a bit of a secret, so the place is accessible.

Chef Mavro

*I recently went in for their Spring menu. It was a meal that showed great ingredients coupled with good execution. I also happen to be friends with most of the kitchen.

Town/Downtown Restaurant

*These two places just really make me happy. The food is always fresh and reminds me of eating in San Francisco. The food is never fussy and has a true sense of place.

Hank's Haute Dogs

*The most important place to open in the last 5 years. Not only do they serve the best hot dog and fries in Hawaii, but Hank has one of the best restaurant minds in the country. He will bring credibility and innovation to a rather stagnant Hawaii food

scene.

Mitch's Sushi

*I had heard such great things about this place. I finally experienced it recently and instantly became a favorite. The mirugai was life-changing.

Mozza & The taco truck

2009-06-19T01:11:00.000-07:00

On a whim, made reservations at Pizzeria Mozza for 11:15 PM with a friend I hadn't seen in 3 years. Great, fast service. Great food. We thought we were both totally full after stuffed squash blossoms with ricotta, bone marrow al forno, arrancine alla bolognese, baby peppers with tuna, Coach farm goat cheese, leeks, scallion & bacon pizza, and Pizza bianca with fontina, mozzarella, sottocenere & sage finished off with a caramel copetta with marshmallow sauce and Spanish salted peanuts. Total damage wasn't too bad. Just over $100.

We thought we were full until we ran into a taco truck on the way back. I don't even know what the name of it was. Great, fast service. Great food. Now I am pretty much decimated after eating 1 lengua (tongue), 1 cabeza (cow's head), and 1 al pastor (spicy pork) taco. Some salsa, a squeeze of lime, onion & cilantro was all they needed. Best tacos ever. Total damage: $3.75

Wasn't too concerned with snapping photos, but I got some on my cell phone I'll try to post soon if they aren't terrible.

Now it's bed time. Goodnight.

-PH

Solo in San Francisco

2009-06-14T01:35:00.000-07:00

First off, I'd like to thank CK for keeping the blog alive and anyone that still follows it for not giving up on it. I've lost my camera, which subsequently made me lose my motivation to post. Plus, I don't think I have the insight or credentials to get away with posting anything without photos to back it up.

**I have to apologize for the quality of the photos, I had to take them with my cell phone under low light conditions. Trying to adjust the photos with my computer makes them look like I took them with a 1970s Polaroid, but it was really the only way to make the photos not appear as if I took photos of some amorphous blobs of goop. Not that I think that any photos that I previously posted here are particularly remarkable, but these photos certainly don't do this food justice, but I thought I'd share them anyway**

I was planning a trip to Northern California to attend a wedding so I asked CK if it was worth taking an extra day of PTO (paid time off) and paying an extra night in a hotel room in order to spend a day in San Francisco and eat at The Dining Room. I knew what the answer was, but I just needed his affirmation to validate my excuse.

After passing out at my hotel for a couple of hours after arriving in San Francisco on the red eye, I head out and made my way towards the Ferry Building. After a nice walk through Union Square and the Financial District, I arrived hungry. Trying to choose the best things and places to eat was going to prove difficult. After exchanging a series of texts with CK, I had an ambitious plan. Knowing I had reservations at 6 at The Dining Room, I couldn't hit all the spots he suggested, but I got a good sampling of what there was to offer in the building.

First stop was Hog Island Oyster Company:

6 Oyster sampler ~ lime, lemon, "Hog Wash" mignonette

Perfectly briny with just a squeeze of lemon or lime or a dash of mignonette. I texted CK right after this right after eating this. Something to the effect of "It was like I had never eaten an oyster before." I REALLY wanted to go for another half dozen or so maybe even more, but there was more eating to do.

Next stop was Boccalone Salumeria, which is, according to it's website, the "first retail location of the artisanal salumi venture from Chris Cosentino and Mark Pastore of Incanto Restaurant." Knowing of Chef Cosentino's affinity for all things pork and with a slogan that boasts of its "Tasty Salted Pig Parts" I knew I was in for a treat and I wasn't disappointed.

Not being an expert in such "Salted Pig Parts" I told one of Boccalone's helpful employees that I couldn't decide what sandwich to choose, and asked for a recommendation. I pulled up at one of the 4 seats in the stand and in a few minutes I was presented with this:

La Cicciolina ~ porchetta di testa, pickled carrot, radish, chili & mint

Boccalone's website describes their Porchetta Di Testa as pig’s head that has been treated like the traditional porchetta from Tuscany. The meat is seasoned with garlic, rosemary and chili then rolled and tied and then cooked. It is delicious sliced for a sandwich or topped with capers & Parmigiano Reggiano.

A hybrid between a traditional panini and a Vietnamese Banh Mi, the fatty porchetta paired perfectly with the pickled vegetables and the mint.

After another couple of laps around the building marveling at the beautiful bounty of produce, meats, and cheeses I stepped up to the counter at Miette to take some desert back to the hotel with me. I looked over the refrigerated case and I again couldn't come to a decision so I texted CK for a suggestion.

Pot de Creme

After another nap back at the hotel and another walk around the neighborhood, I suited up and headed out to the Ritz. Though I wasn't out of place wearing a suit in the City, I had an unexplainable bout of nervousness hit me on my walk over. I couldn't tell whether it was eager anticipation or if it was because this would be my first ever solo fine dining experience, but I even paced around the lobby of the Ritz before I could center myself and walk in the door.

It didn't help things when I saw the computer screen at the front of the restaurant listing my reservation as the only one in the first half hour of opening. Fortunately, just as I sat down another solo diner walked in without a reservation and was promptly seated, easing my concerns of being the only diner in the whole restaurant.

I was presented with a few magazines and a menu which I looked at for about 15 seconds before closing it. I knew I was there for a tasting menu and I didn't really want any hints at what was coming.

None of the photos came out well, but below is my menu as well as some of the photos where the subject is actually recognizable as food.

The first two dishes that came out were actually presented to all the guests, compliments of the kitchen.

Seared Japanese Ayu ~ white miso gelee, watercress

64º Quail Egg ~ Golden Osetra Caviar, Cedar Smoke

Golden Osetra Caviar. Compliments of the kitchen. To every table. Ridiculous.

The Cedar Smoke filled the contained below and was released when I lifted the spoon, totally changing taste of the dish as the smoke escaped.

White Corn and Pepper Soup ~ dungeness crab, basil oil

Abalone ~ sugar snap peas, mirin and konbu scented rice, dashi broth

Wild Northern Halibut ~ potato croquette, curry essence, pea leaves, stupid clam

Lobster ~ mousseron mushroom, onion, snap peas, cherry

Hot Foie Gras ~ brioche, spicy cherry compote, pineapple long pepper reduction

Absolute indulgence. The perfectly cooked slice of foie was enormous, eliciting an audible "wow" from me as the server placed it at my table. Apparently, they get that a lot. They told me Chef Seigel sliced and cooked this one himself (Didn't I mention that it is good to know people in a much earlier post).

Quail ~ black rice, enoki mushroom, pineapple

Kobe ~ marble potato, porcini mushroom, sancho pepper

Mango Sorbet ~ lime compote, aloe gelee

Chocolate Manjari Cake ~ caramel & sea salt, macadamia nut ice cream, cocoa nib crisp

Mignardises

After I got back home a friend asked me if it was the best meal I had ever eaten in my life. The answer came surprisingly easy to me. "No," I replied.

I had eaten some of the most beautifully composed dishes made with some of the best products I had eaten in my life accompanied by superbly paired wines. I had experienced some of the best service I've had at a fine dining establishment. With absolutely no disrespect to Chef Siegel and his staff both in front and back of house, something was lacking throughout the meal. Though I couldn't have had a better experience dining alone, I had come to realize something that I had thought was true for some time. That sharing a meal with good friends that enjoy the experience of eating is really what makes the experience a joy. Though there is certainly a sense of excitement and discovery in dining alone, those experiences seem fleeting. Whether it is a couple of $1 tacos served on a paper plate or a $300 multi-course meal served on the finest china, sharing these experiences and flavors with someone or a group of friends & family is what really makes those meals the best meals in our lives.

That all being said, would I eat at The Dining Room or another fine dining establishment by myself again given the chance?

In a nervous heartbeat.

When do you know...

2009-05-25T18:59:00.000-07:00

Living and working back in Hawaii has left me satisfied, yet I am still hungry for something more. It has been great working back at Roy's, returning to where I first began my career. I am allowed complete freedom with the menu, which in turn has allowed me to blossom as a chef, but I get bored easily. I always feel like there's something more exciting, something I haven't learned elsewhere. I have done many tastings for prominent people in the local food community and have had a great deal of success. This is the first time I have been home in a long time. It still feels as though I am here on an extended vacation and I will soon return to New York or San Francisco. Yet, I have no plan. I have no direction for the first time in my life. San Francisco will always be in my heart, but Europe is validation as New York was the proving ground for any serious cook.

I feel like I have just begun to gain confidence in my abilities. I am finally trusting my training and feel like I can offer Hawaii something new and exciting. But, when do you know when your ready. When is the time right to go out on your own? Selfishly, I may never feel like my resume and training will ever be good enough to justify my own place. I guess we'll see.

On another note. A few weeks ago I had a great meal at Town Restaurant. I always hear great things about the place, so I decided to return after my mediocre first experience. The menu was very approachable and simple. It reminded me of a simple, yet great San Francisco restaurant. Great, local- sustainable produce coupled with restraint and good execution. It was one of the better meals I have had in Hawaii in a long time. So please support Chef Kenney. His respect for cuisine can be tasted through his food.

I am often asked why I don't apply to be on the show "Top Chef". It's a wildly popular and exciting show that I am a fan of. The first season was filmed in San Francisco. The restaurant I used to work in was approached to be the featured restaurant in the first episode and my chef the featured judge. I even remember when the producers came in to watch a kitchen service. It was a fun night because I know they were impressed. Because I worked in a hotel, an agreement was not reached. The producers even asked us to apply for the show. Would I ever apply to be on the "Top Chef"? It's a great prize, you gain publicity and maybe even some fame, but your left with that stigma. The stigma of being on a reality tv cooking show. Am I too good for that? No way, I even attended culinary school with many of the contestants. They are good people and good cooks, but I would rather garner attention for my cooking and not the way I played a game. I would rather have a restaurant that was respected for the experience it provided. Plus, I don't think I am pretty enough to be on T.V.

Classy and Gracious

2009-05-06T14:41:00.000-07:00

Chef Govind Armstrong was in town last week for a demonstration at Macy's. For those you don't know, he is a great chef who has restaurants in LA, Miami and soon NYC. He is an established chef and is known for his California Cuisine. I have had the opportunity to dine at his restaurant in LA, Table 8 a few years ago. I had a great meal. I respected the way he cooked and more importantly the way he carried himself.

This past friday, I heard that he was dining at the restaurant. Despite finding out a few hours before his reservation, I decided to make him a few things that could showcase what we do.

Grilled Toro/ Radish/ Big Island Hearts of Palm/ Cilantro Chips/ Soy- Vadouvan

Slow Poached Egg/ Brioche Crusted Pork Belly/ Truffle Mousseline

Lobster Chawanmushi/ Lime Leaf Tea

Moi/ Braised Red Cabbage/ Cauliflower Puree/ Brown Butter Emulsion

It was a very simple menu, but wouldn't leave him feeling heavy. He had a great time. He had great things to say and was very gracious to me and Chef Jason. He didn't receive a check for the meal, but decided to tip as if he enjoyed a 12 course meal paired with wine. Class goes a long way in this world. Please support his restaurants. They are all good, well-thought, soulful and of course classy. Much like him.

Three

2009-04-14T12:38:00.000-07:00

This past Easter I did a special menu for the guys at Chef Mavro. It was exciting to have all the guys in the kitchen including Chef Kevin and Mavro himself eating my food. It was a great experience, yet I find myself frustrated at the ability to get all the products I ordered. I don't understand why some purveyors promise certain products and can't deliver on it. The menu I had originally intended had to be changed, but I guess that is what cooking is all about. It was exciting to cook in the moment. This is the final menu that was cooked on one burner in the corner of the restaurant.

Bigeye Tuna "Noodles", Crushed Avocado, Sea Asparagus, Sesame Vinaigrette

Seared Toro and Uni, Pickled Pear, Mitsuba, Vadouvan

Slow Poached Egg, Pigs Feet Croquette, Truffle Mousseline

Slow Poached Egg, Crispy Pork Belly, Red Wine Reduction

Maine Lobster "Grenobloise"

Foie Gras Torchon, Blis Maple Syrup, Bacon Crumble, Rocket

48-Hour Shortrib of Beef, Spinach Ball, Fried Bordelaise

The dinner went amazing. It was a pleasure to cook for people I respect. It was incredible to see chefs of their caliber be excited about the food and see things they haven't seen before. It was awesome to see the staff of the restaurant be excited about a great chef coming to eat. I have one more tasting for Hank on Saturday. Hope I kill it.

TWO

2009-03-30T14:35:00.000-07:00

1). Sea Urchin/ Golden Osetra Caviar/ Hawaiian Vanilla

This is a great combination. I first experienced this working with Chef Ron Siegel. He makes a panna cotta out of Santa Barbara Sea Urchin and garnishes with lobster and avocado, finished with vanilla oil. He serves this as an amuse. Lucky guests huh? I have decided to serve a lighter preparation. The sea urchin takes well to acid, so I will use ponzu and lime to heighten the ocean essence. The sea urchin will be seasoned with caviar and finished with vanilla.

2). Hearts of Palm- 2 preparations

The hearts of palm from the Big Island is the best you can get. Why not showcase it in a salad. I will do two preparations with different garnishes.

3). Toro- 2 preparations

Seared/ Cucumber Ribbons/ Goma Vinaigrette

Sashimi noodles/ Lemongrass/ Avocado

Who doesn't love toro? I have decided to use asian flavors for both preparation, but am showing the difference between raw and cooked.

4). Egg

Slow Poached/ Hollandaise Mousseline/ Pork Belly

Soft Scramble/ Truffle Butter/ Sweetbreads

I love using eggs as a course in a tasting. They are not only delicious but also take well to many flavors. I have made this bacon and eggs dish many times. It relies on the technique of "sous vide". I cure the pork belly for 1 day and then cook it under sous vide for 24 hours. It comes out extremely tender and retains the beautiful pink color. The pork belly is then crisped and sliced. The Egg is also cooked using the immersion circulator. It is cooked at a low temperature for two hours. It's a dream dish, because I really don't do anything. The dish is finished with a hollandaise. Tres classique! I put the hollandaise in a whip cream canister for a lighter and better mouthfeel.

5). Abalone

"Grenobloise"

Pigs Feet/ lentils/ Sweet Garlic

The abalone comes from the Big Island. It's extremely tender , so I simply cook it in brown butter and aromatics. I love the combination of seafood with pork. I think anything with pig's feet is going to be very tasty. I will serve it with lentils seasoned with sherry vinegar and a sweet garlic puree.

6). Kona Hirame

A few chefs from my restaurant took a tour of True World CO. We were able to view all the Japanese fish and seafood available. We used to use True World when I worked at Per Se, so I know the quality is great. I was inspired by the Hirame from the Big Island. I probably will roast it whole and keep it simple.

7). Pasta

Agnolotti/ Peas/ Mint/ Ricotta/ Scallions

This is classic Thomas Keller. The famous agnolotti. I love making pasta so this dish celebrates the spring season.

8). Foie Gras

Torchon/ maple syrup/ serrano ham/ rocket

Shaved/ pickled grapes/ candied peanuts

When I was younger, I used to order seared foie gras in every restaurant. I don't know if my taste have changed but I now prefer cold preparations. I love the technique of making torchon. I think it shows attention to detail and patience. The better you clean the foie gras lobes and the longer it hangs, the better the flavor and the cleaner the appearance.

9). "Black Truffle Explosion"

Because this tasting is for Hank, I will attempt to make my version of this famous dish by Chef Grant Achatz from Trio and now Alinea.

10). Shortrib of Beef

48 hours/ Swiss chard/ Fried Bordelaise

The shortribs are cooked sous vide for 48 hours. It will be served simply with braised swiss chard and Sauce Bordelaise.

ONE

2009-03-30T01:53:00.000-07:00

Similar to Chef Grant Achatz of Alinea and Chef Laurent Gras of L2O, two chefs I have great respect and admiration for, I will be posting the evolution and planning of two tasting menu's that will be appear in the coming weeks. I will be cooking for the kitchen brigade of Chef Mavro and a friend and highly decorated and respected restaurateur Hank Adaniya.

As a young Chef, this is the greatest satisfaction. I love cooking for people who appreciate the technique and work that it takes to produce each element of a meal. These people are at the highest level. How could you not get excited to show your passion and background through the progression of a meal.

Should I create a menu that is heavily influenced by my previous mentors? Keller, Siegel, Yamaguchi? Or should I be inspired by the bounty of what Hawaii has to offer. What techniques can I utilize? What can I do that they haven't already seen?

I have decided to create a menu that includes as much products grown locally while taking inspiration from my experiences in New York and San Francisco.

1). Sea Urchin

2). Hearts of Palm

3). Toro

4). Egg

5). Abalone

6). Moi

7). Pasta

8). Foie Gras

9). "Black Truffle Explosion"

10). Shortrib of Beef

These are the products I have chosen for this grand degustation. I will be posting my ideas for the development of each dish.

A Dream Degustation...

2009-03-09T18:07:00.000-07:00

I am often asked where I had my best meal. I can never answer because I have had many memorable meals that have left a lasting impression, even now. So this would be my ideal tasting menu, though it's a bit extended.

Amuse

Salmon Cornet. Red Onion Creme Fraiche, Sesame Tuile

The French Laundry

-Everyone has seen it, many have tasted it, it just makes you smile.

Sea Urchin Panna Cotta. Vanilla Oil. Lobster Tartare

The Dining Room at The Ritz Carlton, SF

-I first had this dish at Masa's when Chef Ron was there. I always remembered it.

First

Sashimi of Santa Barbara Spot Prawn. Yuzu Gelee. Fried Heads. Fresh Wasabi

The Dining Roon at The Ritz Carlton, SF

-We used to have a tank full of live spot prawns in the walk-in. The spot prawns were killed to order. Exceptional ingredients + restraint = amazing results

"Oysters and Pearls"

Per Se, NY

-I believe there are some dishes that cannot be improved upon. This is one of them.

Second

Artichoke Soup. Black Truffle. Parmaggiano

Guy Savoy, LV

-This is his dish. It is served with wild mushroom brioche and truffle butter. Need I say more.

Cold Smoked Ocean Trout. Quail Egg. Caviar

Tetsuya's. SYD

-This was a dish that I had hoped would never end.

Third

Asparagus Salad. Poached Egg. Sourdough Crisp

Alain Ducasse at The Essex House

- This was the first dish that opened my eyes to great cuisine. I was 18 years old and had never tasted anything so fresh, light and exciting.

Tuna Ribbons. Avocado. Radish. Ginger Marinade

Jean George, NY

-This is a dish that reflects Jean George's food. Light and refined.

Fourth

Langoustine Ravioli, Cabbage. Langoustine Jus

Joel Robuchon at The Mansion

- Tres Fantastique.

Sea Urchin Capellini, Caviar

Le Bernadin, NY

-This was just ridiculous. I asked for more bread to finish the sauce.

Fifth

Toro Comparison

Sushi Yasuda, NY

- This was a flight of five different toro nigiri. From fatty to basically melting at room temperature.

Barely Cooked Salmon

Le Bernadin, NY

- The piece of salmon was touched by heat. The waiter then drizzled a warm black truffle vinaigrette tableside.

Sixth

Monterey Bay Abalone. Pig Trotter. Brown Butter

Manresa, SF

-This is what surf and turf should be.

Black Truffle Stuffed Four Story Hill Poulard

Per Se, NY

-The best poulard stuffed with black truffle and roasted. Lights out.

Seventh

Kobe Beef. Spicy Mustard. Watercress Tempura

Joel Robuchon at The Mansion

- The best beef simple served with mustard and crispy watercress.

Katz's Pastrami Sandwich. Mustard. Rye Bread. Sour Pickle

Katz's, NY

-If you had one, you would understand it's place on this list.

Eigth

Al's Italian Beef

Chicago

-Drowned in gravy, laced with peppers, side of fries, there is nothing better.

Chicago Dog "Dragged through the garden"

Hank's Haute Dog

Chez Helfer

-The best way to eat a hot dog with vienna beef.

Ninth

Baba au Rum

Alain Ducasse at The Essex House

-Served with a cart of fine aged rums. You choose.

Blue Cheese and Vanilla Panna Cotta

Tetsuya's, SYD

-His signature dessert, now I know why.

NYC, Part 6

2009-02-08T01:48:00.000-08:00

When I was planning my trip to New York, I set a budget just for food. I won't say what that budget was, but I definitely set aside a good portion of that budget for sushi.

Our original plan was to go to Sushi Yasuda and have the toro flight. Similar to a sake tasting, the toro flight would feature a number or pieces of fat-laced pieces of tuna from around the world, each with a distinctly different taste than the last. Fortunately (yes, fortunately), when we called to confirm our reservation, we had found out that they had moved us from the sushi bar to a table so we canceled our plans.

This left us scrambling for an alternative and luckily Soto was available for dinner that night at the sushi bar.

Though it wasn't exclusively a sushi dinner, it featured impeccably fresh seafood and other ingredients presented beautifully and simply.

Black and white sesame tofu, wasabi soy sauce

Geoduck clam salad - Japanese cucumber, daikon, shiso, spicy radish sprouts

Fluke and cod roe

The next course is an example of trying everything at least once. In my case twice. I had eaten shirako once in Tokyo and declared it one of the worst things I had ever eaten in my life. For those of you that don't know what shirako is, go ahead and look it up, you wouldn't want to eat it either.

I even remarked to CK that of all the things on the menu, this was the one thing I wanted to have no part of. When it came out as one of our courses I thought I would suffer through it, out of respect for the chef. It turned out to be one of the best parts of the meal.

Shirako Agedashi

Chawan mushi

Wild snapper carpaccio - aged vinegar, sea salt, cilantro, ginger shoots

Surf clam - sweet miso and mustard marinade, myoga ginger shoots, sesame, scallion

Minute steamed tai - ginger, scallion, light soy

Unctuous and rich without being heavy or laced with butter or added fat, the next course was beautifully prepared and the highlight of the meal.

Braised black cod - Japanese vegetables

Shima aji carpaccio - truffle ginger soy sauce

White shrimp - uni, quail egg, nori

Broiled langoustine - shiitake mushroom sauce

The cooked courses were followed by a few pieces of sushi, but at this point I was so eager to eat sushi that I didn't want to leave them sitting for much longer than a few seconds so the pictures I did manage to take didn't come out too well.

Sea Trout

Ika

Aji

As a bonus after meeting up with LO and another friend MC and consuming a few too many drinks over the next few hours, we made the Grey Goose-infused decision to head to Blue Ribbon to try and soak up some of the alcohol.

Beef marrow, oxtail marmalade

Nothing like beef marrow and oxtail marmalade at 1 AM!

As you can see by this next photo, I was feeling pretty good because this appeared to be totally in focus when I took it.

Duck club sandwich, sweet potato chips

Happy and full, we headed back to CK's apartment. The next day would, unfortunately, be my last in New York.

NYC, Part 5

2009-02-08T00:59:00.000-08:00

The dining in New York started to become a blur. Between all the Michelin starred dinners, drinks, and delis its becoming hard to fill in the gaps between meals. Luckily, we had a lot of memorable ones.

Though CK has had the chance to both eat in and work in 3 Michelin starred establishments, I would be experiencing it for the first time on this trip.

We chose to head to Jean Georges for lunch as we could order 1x1 and taste a lot of the same food they offer for dinner.

Trio of Canapes - Cauliflower Soup, Salmon & Creme Fraiche, Clementine

We didn't actually order our next course, but thanks to CK, again, we got a treat with our meal.

Uni - Yuzu, Jalapeno, Brown bread toast

After that pleasant surprise, we got into what seemed to be one of the best overall dining values in New York (especially considering that this is a *** restaurant) as each course is $14 and you are allowed to choose as many you like or as few as 2.

One of the best dishes I ate all week and a Jean Georges Classic.

Tuna Ribbons - Avocado, Spicy Radish, Ginger marinade

Peekytoe Crab dumplings - Celeriac & Meyer Lemon Tea

Next was another dish I had been looking forward to trying for a long time.

Sea Scallops - Caramelized Cauliflower, Caper-raisin emulsion ($8 supplement)

Foie Gras Brulee - Pineapple-meyer lemon jam

Soy glazed beef short rib - Apple-jalapeno puree, Rosemary breadcrumb

Black Cod - Honshimeji Mushrooms, Lemongrass Consomme

Chocolate - Jean Georges chocolate cake, Vanilla bean ice cream, chocolate gnocchi, grapefruit, gianduja, basil

Caramel - Chocolate pop, Coffee-cardamom ice cream, Dehydrated sponge, Roasted pineapple sorbet.

Macrons and chocolates

Jean Georges marshmallows

A completely different experience than Daniel. Not better, not worse. Different. A different style of food entirely, much lighter in style but no less flavorful. Just another experience that I will never forget.

Last Night

2009-02-07T10:34:00.001-08:00

Sea Urchin Panna Cotta. Black River Caviar, Hawaiian Vanilla Oil

Big Island Hearts of Palm, Radish, Pickled Fennel, Cilantro Chips

"L'Arpege Egg"

-Coddled Egg, Sherry Vinegar Sabayon, Maple Syrup, Feta

Japanese Big Fin Squid Noodles

-Miso Consomme, Enoki Mushrooms

-Ponzu, Kahuku Sea Asparagus, Scallion

Big Island Abalone

-"Grenobloise"

-Lentils, Sweet Garlic Puree

"BLT"

Crispy Pork Belly, Tomato Pain Perdu, Romaine Pacquet

The "Unofficial Tasting Menu"

2009-01-26T01:14:00.000-08:00

For those who enjoy the degustation or tasting menu format, please come to Roy's Waikiki next friday and saturday. It will be about six courses and priced very fairly. We are trying to implement a weekly tasting menu and allow people to sample a slightly more refined experience. Please come and support next weekend. The "unofficial menu" below:

"Manju"

Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Pickled Shallot Jam

Santa Barbara Sea Urchin Panna Cotta

California Estate Caviar, Hawaiian Vanilla Oil

Big Island Hearts of Palm

Compressed Melon, Salted Pinenuts, Sweet Chili, Cilantro Chips

"Bacon and Eggs"

Crispy Pork Belly, Slow Poached Egg, Truffle Butter, Black Pepper Crumble

Tasmanian Sea Trout

Shortrib Marmalade, Crispy Sweetbread, Herb Salad

Maple Leaf Duck Breast

Radish, Fennel, Scallion "a la grecque", Satay Sauce

Hopefully, the turnout will justify a weekly place on the menu. This is a new concept for the restaurant, but I am optimistic it can be commonplace.

NYC, Part 4

2009-01-24T23:31:00.000-08:00

After eating however many courses at Daniel the night before, CK and I again couldn't make it out of the door before noon. We didn't think it would be very wise to go out for another huge meal so we had already canceled plans our 10PM reservations at Peter Luger for dinner.

About 2PM we finally made it back out again to go to another spot I'd been waiting to try since I saw it on an episode of Anthony Bourdain's Food Network show "A Cook's Tour." Barney Greengrass has been in New York for over 100 years and is famed for their smoked fish and other deli favorites. Bourdain goes so far as to claim that Barney Greengrass is home to the best chopped liver in the universe.

Nova Lox and Sturgeon Appetizer

Chopped Chicken Liver

Nova, Surgeon, Eggs & Onions

Over the 3 dishes and a couple of bagels and bialys we decided to go out for some late night yakitori and take it a bit easy on the eating for the evening. That was easier said than done.

The following is the "light eating" that occurred that night and into the next morning....

When we got to Yakitori Totto at about 10PM it was still packed. After suffering through some of the worst karaoke known to man next door at the unfortunately named "Japas" (for Japanese Tapas, we assumed), we got the call and sat down to eat.

Tako Karaage

Negima

Teba

Tsukune

Kawa

Gyu tongue

Eggplant Miso

Shishito

Bacon-wrapped asparagus

We were thinking of ordering more food, but we already felt like we ate everything on the menu that we wanted to try.

Not completely full and fueled by some Sapporo-aided gusto we agreed to continue eating at Sake Bar Hagi.

Sake Bar Hagi Entrance

Pork belly, chive, and beansprout stir fry

Hamachi Kama

Chicken Karaage w/ daikon oroshi and ponzu

Mentaiko Fried Rice

Yeah......So.......We didn't really take it easy.......Oh well.....I don't think either of us really expected to anyway.

Off the menu

2009-01-19T22:11:00.000-08:00

Remember when I said it was good to know people? This past Saturday I had the pleasure of sampling some of CK's dishes at Unnamedrestaurant. While I usually enjoy everything that is on the menu at Unnamedrestaurant, I was there to eat CK's food this time. He's never let me down in the past in any regard, and certainly didn't on that night either.

Short-rib and foie gras manju with short-rib marmalade

I was joined at dinner by another friend that CK and I grew up with, RM. As soon as we sat down to eat we were greeted with 3 manju fresh out of the oven, stuffed with short-rib and foie gras and brushed more with rendered foie. This dish took me from eating midnight bone marrow and oxtail marmalade with CK @ Blue Ribbon in NY (post coming eventually) to home for the holidays at a Christmas party where CK and I tried real homemade manju that blew Home Maid out of the water. I'm glad CK got the dough recipe from that party. Perfectly buttery and flaky, it was made all the more indulgent by the brush of the rendered foie gras right after they came out of the oven. Hey, if you got foie you might as well use it.

Next was our 1 x 1 pork belly course.

"Bacon & Eggs"

"Onsen Tamago"

24 hours sous vide pork belly with perfectly crisped skin. I loved how CK used 90 percent of the same ingredients in both dishes, yet the flavor profiles were so different. The pork belly and soft-boiled egg accented by chives, sel gris, and truffle butter in CK's bacon & eggs dish made for the ultimate in breakfast-for-dinner fare. But the onsen tamago might even trump that dish with its delicate flavor and aroma imparted by the ginger tea that you pour tableside. The richness from the oozing egg yolk mixed with the tea, the perfectly cooked pork belly, and the crunch of the pork skin also mimicked by the bubu arare CK used to finish the dish made for a perfect combination of flavors and textures.

CK made this next dish knowing how much we like to frequent the various izakaya all over town.

Maitake Tempura

Simply prepared, fried crisp, and topped with yukari salt CK let the mushrooms speak for themselves and allowed us to enjoy their rich, earthy flavor.

And then we went back to a 1 x 1 toro course.

Seared bluefin toro, tomato, scallion vinaigrette, balsamic gelee, pickled jalapeno

Toro sashimi, confit orange, ponzu gelee, truffle vinaigrette

The seared toro was finished with a tomato water (not pictured), perfectly seared to enjoy two textures of toro with the acidity of the tomatoes and balsamic gelee to cut through the natural richness of the toro. The toro sashimi was another well thought out dish with a delicate balance of earthiness from the truffle vinaigrette, the buttery toro, and the acid from the ponzu and orange segments.

Finally, and mercifully CK allowed us to stop eating after the next dish. In all honesty, RM and I could have stopped after the 3 manju, but with CK leading the way we didn't want to.

Seared scallops, vadouvan, and lime

The perfectly seared scallops (an impressive feat in its own right knowing that it is absolutely impossible to get dayboat scallops to Hawaii at the peak of freshness) seasoned with vadouvan, a sort of french curry-like spice that CK has made in San Francisco, and finished with butter under the broiler.

A special thanks to CK for letting us sample his food. Hopefully those of you that read this get a chance to try the things that he's making in that kitchen. I know his passion and I know he puts great thought and care behind every dish he puts out where ever he is. We're all lucky to have him cooking in Hawaii for a while. I have no idea how long it is going to be for, but I'll be there trying everything he sends out to me while I can.

what gives...

2009-01-19T18:14:00.000-08:00

I read a lot. Cookbooks, food publications, wine journals and a number of critics commentary both good and bad. I'm not a scholar or even pretend to be, but I think I have been around and experienced food on a pretty personal level. I often wonder what the criteria and experience that a critic needs to openly express their opinion. The power of printed word speaks volumes for the public and can often destroy a business. I often wonder if some critics have any experience with the hospitality industry in the service aspect or have ever worked on the line of a restaurant. Their is nothing glamorous about the day to day operations of a restaurant. When you are 20 tickets deep and the expediter is asking for the sauce on the side, light salt, allergic to pepper and fire/pick on the ribeye well done, the last thing you really think about is prancing around the dining room greeting guests. It's tough.

I often read restaurant reviews and think some critics commentary is not validated. What do they know? Where have they worked? For how long ? Do they really live and breathe everything culinary or do they just enjoy eating out? Probably the latter. They should feel the pressure of a 3 star michelin restaurant or a saturday night at a turn and burn establishment. Chances are they wouldn't make it through one service.

Hopefully, the new year will bring many new restaurants. Hopefully, the new year will bring a renewed excitement to the local dining scene. Hopefully, the new year will foster a desire to showcase the beautiful natural resources we are blessed with. Hopefully, someone will take the chance and open an establishment that can build on Hawaii regional cuisine.

A New Renaissance... Hopefully

2009-01-16T01:05:00.000-08:00

Almost 20 years ago, a group of a dozen chefs started a culinary movement that has been called Hawaii Regional Cuisine. With an insistence on local, sustainable farming, the use of the hawaiian waters and a desire to show that Hawaii deserves to become a culinary destination, they paved the way for a younger generation of chefs. Chefs such as Roy Yamaguchi and Alan Wong have become the face of this movement and continue to produce great cuisine.

I have been fortunate to be able to learn from many of these godfathers of Hawaii Regional Cuisine. They have set such a great foundation for the younger generation to build on and take the local food scene to unprecedented heights. I have been fortunate to have the opportunity to work in great food cities such as New York and San Francisco, thus being exposed to incredible talent. Chef Tony Liu of Morandi Restaurant is one of the best cooks in New York City having honed his craft at Daniel and Babbo. He has quickly become a rising star in one of the best food cities in the world and he started like many in the kitchen of Roy's Hawaii Kai. Chef Deven Hashimoto is another incredible chef, he being the Chef de Cuisine of Alex Restaurant in Las Vegas. For people who don't know, this establishment holds 2 michelin stars and is considered one of the best in the country.

The emergence of local talent on the mainland is truly beneficial as is the arrival of a respected restauranteur Hank Adaniya. Many people know him for his "Chicago" style hot dogs, but he ran one of the most innovative and progressive restaurants in the world. He has a knack for fostering and recognizing talent. His arrival has brought positive light to the local food scene and will hopefully push everyone to realize that we haven't reached our potential.

I have spent the past 4 years working for Chefs Ron Siegel and Thomas Keller. Almost weekly, hawaiian products would be featured on their menus, such as Hearts of Palm, Maui Pineapple and Kona Kampachi. Hawaii truly has first rate ingredients and up and coming talent. Hopefully, these two can meet to produce a new excitement for a progressive regional cuisine.

The return of talented chefs such as Tony and Devin, coupled with the emergence of homegrown talent will no doubt create a new food renaissance that Hawaii deserves.

Till then, good eating.

Side Street Inn

2009-01-10T15:45:00.001-08:00

Having friends in town is always a good excuse to go out and eat. For CK and I, its always a good excuse to get to Side Street Inn. Renown amongst locals for years for having great food in a casual atmosphere, Side Street is the perfect place to meet up, have a few drinks, and sample some of the best local-style food around.

Kim Chee Tako Poke; Ahi Limu Poke

Spicy Chicken

I always get a kick from reading their menu describing the sauce as "our own mild spicy sauce." Uh, so which is it? Mild or Spicy? In actuality it is not that spicy at all and has a strong garlic flavor like Korean-style chicken.

Side Street Fried Rice

Pan-fried Island Pork Chops

See the glisten. Thats how you know its good!

Another shot of the Pork Chops

"Pake style" sliders

Side Street's Chinese-style interpretation of the mini hamburger. One order comes with a steamed bun filled with cold ginger chicken, char siu, and roast pork.

Kalbi

You don't need to go to a Korean restaurant to find the best Kalbi in town. Thick cut and perfectly cooked.

I got put in charge of placing the order for 9 that night so we got basically double everything that you see here. Side Street has a pretty extensive menu, but every time we go we always order pretty much the same things you see here. (With the exception of the sliders which are a special that I didn't order). They are just too good to give up to try something else instead.

NYC, Part 3

2009-01-09T22:33:00.000-08:00

White Truffles shaved tableside. 3 different times. But we'll get to that in a bit.

After another late night on full stomachs that wouldn't allow us to wind down and sleep, CK and I ended up not making it out of his place until about 2 or 3PM the next day. No matter though, we would be going out for a three course dinner, we thought. On this trip, three courses would qualify as a light meal. Maybe we would grab a late night Gray's Papaya or something tonight and get the New York Street food experience.

So while walking around the neighborhood and doing about as much sightseeing as I would do on the entire trip, we ran into Magnolia Bakery. So I figured we could just stop in for a cupcake and some banana pudding and be on our way. It would get me out of the cold for 5 minutes or so anyway.

Pumpkin Spice Cupcake

Banana Pudding

Our real treat, though, was going to be our dinner at..........

Restaurant Daniel

What can I say? It is good to know people. In my case, it was really good to know someone that knows people.

As soon as we arrived at Daniel we were escorted to the salon where we enjoyed our complimentary champagne and contemplated what we might be in store for. We came in thinking that we were only going to have three courses, I think we had 11 if you count the canapes. While I will remember this meal for the rest of my life, I don't really like to think about how much we ate. You can try and count the number of courses for yourself below. Just don't tell me the number.

We sat down at the banquette marveling at both the elegance and size of Daniel's recently remodeled dining room. The waiter came by our table and informed us that the only decision we would have to make for the night was the number of courses we wanted to eat. We replied that we would leave it up to the kitchen to decide. I think that was the right answer. Like I said, it is good to know people that know people.

Trio of broccoli canape

Geoduck Cevice

From here CK and I were served courses 1x1. Meaning each course we each received a different item. Eager to try as much as we could on this trip, we would eat as close to half of the dish as possible and then pass the plate. Though, admittedly, we both found it hard to give up certain dishes.

Mosaic of Venison and Foie Gras ~ Juniper, Sweet and Sour Chestnuts

Game "Pate en Croute" with Foie Gras ~ Porcini, Lady Apple, Celery-Hazelnut salad

Nantucket Bay Scallop Ceviche ~ Blood Orange, Winter Point Oysters, Uni

Maine Peekytoe Crab ~ Fuju Apple, Celery Creme Fraiche, Hearts of Palm

Why does it seem like I eat more Big Island hearts of palm outside of Hawaii when I can't find it on a menu here? Beautiful product, grown in our backyard, used in restaurants with multiple Michelin Stars (including almost daily at The French Laundry and Per Se) and not prohibitively expensive to put on a menu.

Florida Frogs Leg ~ Potato Gnocci, Watercress, Sweet and Black Garlic

Scottish Langoustine ~ Creamy Polenta, Fennel Confit, Piquillo Peppers

Already in a daze from the barrage of dishes coming one after the other. One of the many waiters that were attending to our every need asked if he could shave some white truffle on my next dish. I don't remember if I answered him clearly or simply let out an audible grunt, but the next thing I know this was in front of me.

Ouef Cocotte with White Truffle ~ Chantrelle, Watercress Coulis, Mouillette

And this was sitting infront of CK

Agnelotti with Fontina and White Truffle

Classic. Tableside service. At this point, I think the other people in the dining room must have been wondering who we were because no one else we saw got this dish.

This picture absolutely can't do this next dish justice. I was way to eager to eat it and my hand were already shaking in anticipation so no pictures of it came out clearly. As i was about to put fork to plate, the waiter showed up with our buddy, the white truffle.

Stuffed Whole Dover Sole ~ Salsify, Chicken Jus, Shaved White Truffle

Un-be-lievable......And that wasn't it. There was still more to go.

"Foie de Veau A la Moutarde" ~ Celery Crossus, Red Wine Braised Shallots

Crispy Calf Head ~ Endive, Chantrelle

First pigs face, now calf head. Does it get any better? Maybe.

More tableside service.

Woodcock with cognac flambee ~ Spinach Subrique, Cippollini Onions, Pommes Boulangere

Plated.

The intensely gamey meat and the thick, sticky jus from the plate and potatoes made this a bit difficult to eat so deep into our meal.

After our plates were cleared the waiter swooped with our stay of execution and informed us that it was the end the dinner portion of our meal. We were offered a cheese course, but fearing what kind of onslaught that would bring upon us, we politely passed. So they decided to send us two deserts each instead.

Pumpkin Biscuit ~ Cranberry Mousse, Cranberry Ice Cream

Huckleberry and Orange Vacherin ~ Lemon-Olive Oil Emulsion

Hazelnut Mousse with Gianduja ~ Salted Caramel Ice Cream

Chocolate Dacquoise with Rice Crispy ~ Lemon Curd, Dark Chocolate Ice Cream

So much for an abbreviated dinner or late night snacks. This meal was so epic, it threw off our entire schedule for the rest of the week.

NYC, Part 2 (Tarrytown Edition)

2009-01-08T23:02:00.000-08:00

After a cross Pacific and cross country plane ride, a monster sandwich at Katz's, a late night Roman-style dinner and a couple of drinks out on the town the combination of jet lag, food coma, and alcohol pretty much had me knocked out the entire next day. But it wouldn't keep us down for long. We had more eating to do. This time not in the city, but upstate a bit for a dinner at Blue Hill at Stone Barns.

I was excited to try this "farm-to-table" style dining and was looking forward to the best that Stone Barns and the surrounding farm country could offer. Though Dan Barber's original Blue Hill is in the city, I was excited to head to Stone Barns as it is as close to the farm as you can get.

CK and I headed over to Grand Central Station to meet LO and IR for the 45 minute train ride to Tarrytown. After another 10 minute cab ride through the darkened countryside we arrived at Stone Barns. Too late for the farm tour, we escaped the cold as quickly as possible and headed inside.

After a drink in the lounge and a glass of champagne at the table, I was already buzzing both from the drinks and the anticipation. The staff at Blue Hill started us of with a variety of vegetables picked right off the farm that day through a number of interesting preparations and presentations.

A variety of cauliflower

Baby carrots, baby fennel, and baby turnips

Potato and squash chips

Beet burgers (best "vegiburger" ever) and salsify

Dried Kale

Charcuterie ~ Chicken liver with chocolate tuile, speck, bologna, sopresatta

Pig's face bacon

Not a typo. Bacon made with the meat off a pig's face as every bit as delicious, if not more so, than "regular" bacon.

Homemade oatmeal crackers with ricotta, butter, arugula salt, and beet salt

Blue Hill Farm veal marrow with American sturgeon caviar

Pure indulgence. A veal bone split and roasted then topped with caviar. The richness of the marrow and the briny pop of the caviar made this dish a hit.

Forona beets, homemade yogurt, pine nuts, mache

Roasted baby butternut squash

This Morning's Farm egg, bloomsdale spinach & cracked wheat

Stone Barns Morteau Sausage, fall fruits and vegetables

An outstanding dish. The house made morteau sausage was singularly one of the best things I ate on my whole trip. Perfectly composed and balanced as everything on the plate had a purpose.

Handmade kabocha ravioli, stone barns goose breast & lemon thyme

Stone Barns Pastured Lamb, baby field cabbage & heirloom shelling beans

Hudson Valley Venison, fall fruits & rutabaga

Butternut Squash Soup, apple cider gelee, mutsu apple-ginger sorbet

Pickled Plum Soup, honey, fennel, concord grape sorbet

Hazelnut Daquoise, quince, maple syrup, rosemary ice cream, and toasted meringue

Golden Beet Cake, molasses, white chocolate, and pistachio ice cream

As you can see, it was quite a marathon meal. Not even the most unhappy and non-talkative couple in existence, silently gnawing away at their food at the two top next to us could take away from the experience. While Blue Hill at Stone Barns didn't offer the most refined food, it was straightforward and delicious. You can tell that the kitchen has total respect for the produce and proteins that they work with. This is a product of both Chef Barber's philosophy and how closely they work with their neighboring farmers.

Honestly, it is something that I wish we would see more of here at home. I'm not asking for Michelin star food, or even food that tastes like it came from Stone Barns (or anywhere else, for that matter). I want to experience flavors that can only come from produce grown in Hawaii, presented in a straightforward manner. There has been a movement to make this more of a reality, but the demand has to be there too. Unfortunately, a populace that makes Romano's Macaroni Grill it's best new restaurant and continues to vote it one of the best for Italian food makes it quite an uphill battle to change people's minds. But this is a tangent and an argument for another time.

The meal took so long, we missed our train and had to wait in the cold for one of the last trains out of Tarrytown. After 45 minute train ride to chat about and digest and reflect on our meal we arrive back in the city at around 2AM. We headed back to CK's apartment to sleep and get ready to eat again.....

America's Best Doughnuts?

2009-01-07T23:09:00.000-08:00

Just browsing the internet and came across this article highlighting America's best doughnuts and it reminded me of last night's post. While I don't how reliable a source Forbes Traveller is for rating food, I found the list quite interesting as I've been to at least 4 places on this list. It includes one local spot one wouldn't necessarily expect to see on the list of best doughnut shops.

Lilikoi Malasadas, guava coulis ~ Chef Mavro ~ Honolulu, HI

Variety of Doughnuts ~ Doughnut Plant ~ NYC

See the rest of the list here: Forbes Traveller

*All photos credit Forbes Traveller*

NYC, Part 1

2009-01-06T21:02:00.000-08:00

No Broadway shows, no Times Square, no shopping, no giant double decker red bus, no Empire State Building observation deck, no Statue of Liberty, no Central Park horsey rides. I was going to New York for one reason. To eat. 10,000 miles (roundtrip) and countless thousands of calories later I can say, that I did it the right way and I didn't miss out on one thing.

After arriving in New York ahead of my baggage that was still sitting in the belly of Chicago's O'Hare airport and briefly settling in at CK's apartment, we soon set out for Katz's Delicatessen. Katz's was founded in 1888 and has been feeding masses of New Yorkers and tourists alike ever since.

Corned beef on rye.

Katz's has a unique ordering process where you actually order from the guys that cut the juicy slices of meat from the massive briskets and assemble the stacks right in front of you. They then mark a ticket which you use to pay at the front on the way out. CK and I split a corned beef and a pastrami sandwich so I could get a taste of both. Katz's serves some of the best corned beef and pastrami that I have ever had.

Pastrami, Corned Beef and Sour Pickles (There's our friend LO's pastrami in the background [sans condiments, of course]).

Whats a good Jewish deli meal without latkes?

Potato pancakes, apple sauce & sour cream

Despite us all proclaiming our level of fullness to each other and just to set the tone for the rest of my week in New York, we decided to make our way over to the Doughnut Plant to eat some more and try some of their world famous creations.

As seen on the Food Network, countless other blogs, and somewhere in Tokyo, the Doughnut Plant's signature doughnut is the Tres Leches.

Tres Leches Doughnut. Yum.

New to their menu was the Creme Brulee doughnut with a delicious crunchy sugary crust on top.

Creme Brulee Doughnut

At this point, I still dont think we fully grasped what we had gotten ourselves into. But satisfied, for the moment, we headed back to CK's apartment to rest, recover, and wait for United to deliver my luggage.

After a good nap and a 10PM visit from the courier with my bags, we finally headed out on the town for dinner. I learned pretty quickly that a Saturday dinner at 11:00 PM isn't to out of the ordinary as LO had gotten to the restaurant a bit ahead of us and informed us that they were full, but would have a seat for us in half an hour. Like all good things, it was totally worth the wait.

Lupa ~ NYC

This was the special pasta of the evening.

Housemade fettucini, duck ragu

Next was one of the best pastas I've ever had. "One of the best ________ I've ever had" was quickly becoming a running theme on this trip. Especially since I was able to try a lot of different things for the first time.

Bucatini All' Amatriciana

The carbonara, our waiter explained, was "aggressively seasoned." The rich sauce thickened with cheese & egg yolks and studded with chunks of crisp pancetta was especially warming and comforting on that below freezing New York night.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara

Now onto the mains, well the sides for the mains...the potatoes were particularly remarkable. Cooked like tostones (twice fried plantains ~ fried once, smashed, and fried again) then seasoned and served with sage.

Potato; eggplant

Unfortunately, the restaurant was out of lamb shortribs by the time we put our order in at about 11:30PM, but the kitchen was able to scrounge up something and throw these things together for us...

Pork shoulder with Treviso and Aceto

While not the most tender pork shoulder I have ever eaten, I loved how the vinegar helped cut through the richness of the meat.

We also ordered the skate (also delicious).

Skate with Clams and Rabe

Then we moved onto deserts....

Black pepper panna cotta & fig

Lupa Tartufo

It was only my first 14 hours in the city, but I had already experienced great food with even better friends. I had an inkling I was going to have a good time before I got to NY. But after my first day I knew for a fact that this trip was going to be one to savor.

Sushi Izakaya Gaku

2008-12-30T19:41:00.000-08:00

After a short debate over which Izakaya we should eat at last Saturday, CK and I finally decided to check out Sushi Izakaya Gaku. I had only been once and it would be a first for CK and we were both in for a treat.

We called ahead and said we were interested in a table for 2 and were on the way. The host on the phone informed me that a table was just opening up and should be ready when we arrived.

After perusing the menu for a bit we decided on the following dishes....

Also known as the "foie gras of the sea" the ankimo, or monkfish liver, was classically served at Gaku. For those who haven't had the opportunity to try ankimo, it and has a really delicate flavor and silky texture perfectly complimented by the tartness of ponzu and the heat from the of the spicy grated daikon and raw green onion.

Ankimo ~ Monkfish Liver, Ponzu, Negi, Momiji Oroshi

One of the our favorite dishes of the evening, the Spicy Hamachi Tartare came on ice topped with tobiko and a quail egg. After mixing everything together, you spoon the mixture onto the unseasoned sheets of nori that come on the side.

Spicy Hamachi Tartare

The TNT or dynamite has become a staple of Japanese restaurants around the country and usually comes with an assortment of scallops, shrimp, squid, and/or other assorted seafood as well as mushrooms and onions all baked in a slightly spicy mayonnaise. The previous time I went to Gaku the TNT was heavy on the shrimp and scallops. This time it contained more squid and tako. At a less scrupulous restaurant, I would think it was because they were trying to get rid of seafood a bit past its prime. However, nothing about Gaku led me to believe that the choice of seafood wasn't simply based on what they had fresh on hand at the time.

TNT ~ Shrimp, Squid, Tako, & Mushrooms baked in a spicy mayonnaise

The Maguro Chazuke was another winner. A small bowl of rice topped with high quality slices or raw tuna. It comes with a pot of hot tea to pour over top and a garnish of fresh (frozen?) wasabi and green onions). Japanese comfort food at its best.

Maguro Chazuke

Being a "Sushi Izakaya" we decided that we had to try some sushi. While not approaching Sasabune status, the sushi was fresh and I appreciated the presentation (no wasabi on the side, you only get as much as the chef wants you to have on each piece). The mackerel was intriguing in that it actually tasted nothing like mackerel, but was good nonetheless.

Assortment of Sushi

All of this quality food as well as a couple of large Sapporos cost exactly $100 and was totally worth the price. We tipped $5 Rachel Ray style* and went on our way....

*Thats a joke, by the way and hopefully the first and last time I mention RR on this blog. Sorry CK........

Close, but 4,000 miles apart

2008-12-30T00:27:00.000-08:00

Some people think a hot dog is just a hot dog. Those people aren't from Chicago. Actually, I'm not even from Chicago. However, I do have ties to the city and recognize that Chicago hot dogs, particularly those made by Vienna Sausage (absolutely no relation to the canned stuff so popular in Hawaii), stand head and [broad] shoulders above the rest.

The modern "twist" to the classic hot dog stand formula can be found both in Chicago at Hot Doug's and in Hawaii at Hank's Haute Dogs.

After standing in line outside of Hot Doug's for about 45 minutes, made much more bearable by the beautiful weather on that particular Saturday afternoon, my family and I ordered up a few different dogs to try.

Hot Doug's proprietor Doug Sohn made headlines during Chicago's absurd ban on foie gras by continuing to serve this...

Duck & Foie Gras Sausage, Truffled goat cheese ~ Hot Doug's

Lamb Merguez Sausage ~ Hot Doug's

Thuringer Bratwurst ~ Hot Doug's

Duck.....fat......fries ~ Hot Doug's

Henry Adaniya of Trio fame recently fulfilled his life long dream of opening up a hot dog stand here on Oahu. Borrowing a bit from Hot Doug's successful formula, Hank has put his own twist on the Chicago hot dog stand out here in Hawaii. He spares no expense to ensure that the Chicago dog he delivers is the real deal, going as far as importing the dogs, green relish, sport peppers, and even the steamed poppy seed buns directly from Chicago and always finishing the dog with a sprinkle of celery salt.

First the classic polish dragged through the garden...

All-beef polish sausage ~ Hank's Haute Dogs

Onto the the twist....

"The Fat Boy" ~ Deep fried bacon wrapped sausage ~ Hank's Haute Dogs

Classic sides...

Best fries in town ~ Hank's Haute Dogs

I'm going to have to return to try Hank's version of duck fat fries (served only on Saturdays and Sundays)

Maui Onion Rings ~ Hank's Haute Dogs

Hank's is enough of a draw that my father (probably the only individual that ever had a personal account with Vienna Sausage, importer of 1,000+ hot dogs and polish sausage every year and a guy who boasts the direct line to the VP of Vienna on his cell phone contact list) still makes his way down to Coral Street to get his fix. The draw is undoubtedly the nostalgia brought on by Hank's flawless reproduction of the classic (my dad, forever the purist, won't go near any of the "haute" sausages). I, on the other hand, usually love to try whatever crazy concoctions Hank can come up with.

There is probably one thing that Doug Sohn, Henry Adaniya, my dad, and I can all agree on though....NEVER PUT KETCHUP ON A HOT DOG!

Street Cred.

2008-12-29T22:16:00.000-08:00

Just a small sample of the places we've been, the cuisine we've experienced, and what you can expect to see in the future....

Caramelized Foie Gras stuffed Quail, Pommes Robuchon ~ L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon (Tokyo)

Spicy Negi-Hama Tartare ~ Sushi Izakaya Gaku

Corned Beef Sandwich ~ Katz Delicatessen

Blue Hill Garden Vegetables ~ Blue Hill at Stone Barns

Ouef Cocotte with White Truffle ~ Chantrelles, Watercress Coulis, Mouillette ~ Daniel

(Otherwise known as the *Make it Rain* Course)

Slow Braised Black Cod ~ Soto

Uni, Yuzu, Jalapeno, Brown Bread Toast ~ Jean Georges

Tuna Ribbons - Avocado, Spicy Radish, Ginger Marinade ~ Jean Georges