The "Unofficial Tasting Menu"

For those who enjoy the degustation or tasting menu format, please come to Roy's Waikiki next friday and saturday. It will be about six courses and priced very fairly. We are trying to implement a weekly tasting menu and allow people to sample a slightly more refined experience. Please come and support next weekend. The "unofficial menu" below:

"Manju"

Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Pickled Shallot Jam

Santa Barbara Sea Urchin Panna Cotta

California Estate Caviar, Hawaiian Vanilla Oil

Big Island Hearts of Palm

Compressed Melon, Salted Pinenuts, Sweet Chili, Cilantro Chips

"Bacon and Eggs"

Crispy Pork Belly, Slow Poached Egg, Truffle Butter, Black Pepper Crumble

    Tasmanian Sea Trout

Shortrib Marmalade, Crispy Sweetbread, Herb Salad

Maple Leaf Duck Breast

Radish, Fennel, Scallion "a la grecque", Satay Sauce

Hopefully, the turnout will justify a weekly place on the menu. This is a new concept for the restaurant, but I am optimistic it can be commonplace. 

CK

NYC, Part 4

After eating however many courses at Daniel the night before, CK and I again couldn't make it out of the door before noon. We didn't think it would be very wise to go out for another huge meal so we had already canceled plans our 10PM reservations at Peter Luger for dinner.

About 2PM we finally made it back out again to go to another spot I'd been waiting to try since I saw it on an episode of Anthony Bourdain's Food Network show "A Cook's Tour." Barney Greengrass has been in New York for over 100 years and is famed for their smoked fish and other deli favorites. Bourdain goes so far as to claim that Barney Greengrass is home to the best chopped liver in the universe.

Nova Lox and Sturgeon Appetizer

Chopped Chicken Liver

Nova, Surgeon, Eggs & Onions

Over the 3 dishes and a couple of bagels and bialys we decided to go out for some late night yakitori and take it a bit easy on the eating for the evening. That was easier said than done. 

The following is the "light eating" that occurred that night and into the next morning....

When we got to Yakitori Totto at about 10PM it was still packed. After suffering through some of the worst karaoke known to man next door at the unfortunately named "Japas" (for Japanese Tapas, we assumed), we got the call and sat down to eat.

Tako Karaage

Negima

Teba

Tsukune

Kawa

Gyu tongue

Eggplant Miso

Shishito

Bacon-wrapped asparagus

We were thinking of ordering more food, but we already felt like we ate everything on the menu that we wanted to try.

Not completely full and fueled by some Sapporo-aided gusto we agreed to continue eating at Sake Bar Hagi.

Sake Bar Hagi Entrance

Pork belly, chive, and beansprout stir fry

Hamachi Kama

Chicken Karaage w/ daikon oroshi and ponzu

Mentaiko Fried Rice

Yeah......So.......We didn't really take it easy.......Oh well.....I don't think either of us really expected to anyway.

Off the menu

Remember when I said it was good to know people? This past Saturday I had the pleasure of sampling some of CK's dishes at Unnamedrestaurant. While I usually enjoy everything that is on the menu at Unnamedrestaurant, I was there to eat CK's food this time. He's never let me down in the past in any regard, and certainly didn't on that night either.

Short-rib and foie gras manju with short-rib marmalade

I was joined at dinner by another friend that CK and I grew up with, RM. As soon as we sat down to eat we were greeted with 3 manju fresh out of the oven, stuffed with short-rib and foie gras and brushed more with rendered foie. This dish took me from eating midnight bone marrow and oxtail marmalade with CK @ Blue Ribbon in NY (post coming eventually) to home for the holidays at a Christmas party where CK and I tried real homemade manju that blew Home Maid out of the water. I'm glad CK got the dough recipe from that party. Perfectly buttery and flaky, it was made all the more indulgent by the brush of the rendered foie gras right after they came out of the oven. Hey, if you got foie you might as well use it.

Next was our 1 x 1 pork belly course.

"Bacon & Eggs"

"Onsen Tamago"

24 hours sous vide pork belly with perfectly crisped skin. I loved how CK used 90 percent of the same ingredients in both dishes, yet the flavor profiles were so different. The pork belly and soft-boiled egg accented by chives, sel gris, and truffle butter in CK's bacon & eggs dish made for the ultimate in breakfast-for-dinner fare. But the onsen tamago might even trump that dish with its delicate flavor and aroma imparted by the ginger tea that you pour tableside. The richness from the oozing egg yolk mixed with the tea, the perfectly cooked pork belly, and the crunch of the pork skin also mimicked by the bubu arare CK used to finish the dish made for a perfect combination of flavors and textures.

CK made this next dish knowing how much we like to frequent the various izakaya all over town.

Maitake Tempura

Simply prepared, fried crisp, and topped with yukari salt CK let the mushrooms speak for themselves and allowed us to enjoy their rich, earthy flavor.

And then we went back to a 1 x 1 toro course.

Seared bluefin toro, tomato, scallion vinaigrette, balsamic gelee, pickled jalapeno

Toro sashimi, confit orange, ponzu gelee, truffle vinaigrette

The seared toro was finished with a tomato water (not pictured), perfectly seared to enjoy two textures of toro with the acidity of the tomatoes and balsamic gelee to cut through the natural richness of the toro. The toro sashimi was another well thought out dish with a delicate balance of earthiness from the truffle vinaigrette, the buttery toro, and the acid from the ponzu and orange segments.

Finally, and mercifully CK allowed us to stop eating after the next dish. In all honesty, RM and I could have stopped after the 3 manju, but with CK leading the way we didn't want to.

Seared scallops, vadouvan, and lime

The perfectly seared scallops (an impressive feat in its own right knowing that it is absolutely impossible to get dayboat scallops to Hawaii at the peak of freshness) seasoned with vadouvan,  a sort of french curry-like spice that CK has made in San Francisco, and finished with butter under the broiler.

A special thanks to CK for letting us sample his food. Hopefully those of you that read this get a chance to try the things that he's making in that kitchen. I know his passion and I know he puts great thought and care behind every dish he puts out where ever he is. We're all lucky to have him cooking in Hawaii for a while. I have no idea how long it is going to be for, but I'll be there trying everything he sends out to me while I can.

what gives...

I read a lot. Cookbooks, food publications, wine journals and a number of critics commentary both good and bad. I'm not a scholar or even pretend to be, but I think I have been around and experienced food on a pretty personal level. I often wonder what the criteria  and experience that a critic needs to openly express their opinion. The power of printed word speaks volumes for the public and can often destroy a business. I often wonder if some critics have any experience with the hospitality industry in the service aspect or have ever worked on the line of a restaurant. Their is nothing glamorous about the day to day operations of a restaurant. When you are 20 tickets deep and the expediter is asking for the sauce on the side, light salt, allergic to pepper and fire/pick on the ribeye well done, the last thing you really think about is prancing around the dining room greeting guests. It's tough. 

I often read restaurant reviews and think some critics commentary is not validated. What do they know? Where have they worked? For how long ? Do they really live and breathe everything culinary or do they just enjoy eating out? Probably the latter. They should feel the pressure of a 3 star michelin restaurant or a saturday night at a turn and burn establishment. Chances are they wouldn't make it through one service. 

Hopefully, the new year will bring many new restaurants. Hopefully, the new year will bring a renewed excitement to the local dining scene. Hopefully, the new year will foster a desire to showcase the beautiful natural resources we are blessed with. Hopefully, someone will take the chance and open an establishment that can build on Hawaii regional cuisine. 

ck

A New Renaissance... Hopefully

Almost 20 years ago, a group of a dozen chefs started a culinary movement that has been called Hawaii Regional Cuisine. With an insistence on local, sustainable farming, the use of the hawaiian waters and a desire to show that Hawaii deserves to become a culinary destination, they paved the way for a younger generation of chefs. Chefs such as Roy Yamaguchi and Alan Wong have become the face of this movement and continue to produce great cuisine. 

I have been fortunate to be able to learn from many of these godfathers of Hawaii Regional Cuisine. They have set such a great foundation for the younger generation to build on and take the local food scene to unprecedented heights. I have been fortunate to have the opportunity to work in great food cities such as New York and San Francisco, thus being exposed to incredible talent. Chef Tony Liu of Morandi Restaurant is one of the best cooks in New York City having honed his craft at Daniel and Babbo. He has quickly become a rising star in one of the best food cities in the world and he started like many in the kitchen of Roy's Hawaii Kai. Chef Deven Hashimoto is another incredible chef, he being the Chef de Cuisine of Alex Restaurant in Las Vegas. For people who don't know, this establishment holds 2 michelin stars and is considered one of the best in the country. 

The emergence of local talent on the mainland is truly beneficial as is the arrival of a respected restauranteur Hank Adaniya. Many people know him for his "Chicago" style hot dogs, but he ran one of the most innovative and progressive restaurants in the world. He has a knack for fostering and recognizing talent. His arrival has brought positive light to the local food scene and will hopefully push everyone to realize that we haven't reached our potential. 

I have spent the past 4 years working for Chefs Ron Siegel and Thomas Keller. Almost weekly, hawaiian products would be featured on their menus, such as Hearts of Palm, Maui Pineapple and Kona Kampachi. Hawaii truly has first rate ingredients and up and coming talent. Hopefully, these two can meet to produce a new excitement for a progressive regional cuisine. 

The return of talented chefs such as Tony and Devin, coupled with the emergence of homegrown talent will no doubt create a new food renaissance that Hawaii deserves. 

Till then, good eating. 

CK

Side Street Inn

Having friends in town is always a good excuse to go out and eat. For CK and I, its always a good excuse to get to Side Street Inn. Renown amongst locals for years for having great food in a casual atmosphere, Side Street is the perfect place to meet up, have a few drinks, and sample some of the best local-style food around.

Kim Chee Tako Poke; Ahi Limu Poke

Spicy Chicken

I always get a kick from reading their menu describing the sauce as "our own mild spicy sauce." Uh, so which is it? Mild or Spicy? In actuality it is not that spicy at all and has a strong garlic flavor like Korean-style chicken.

Side Street Fried Rice

Pan-fried Island Pork Chops

See the glisten. Thats how you know its good!

Another shot of the Pork Chops

"Pake style" sliders

Side Street's Chinese-style interpretation of the mini hamburger. One order comes with a steamed bun filled with cold ginger chicken, char siu, and roast pork.

Kalbi

You don't need to go to a Korean restaurant to find the best Kalbi in town. Thick cut and perfectly cooked.

I got put in charge of placing the order for 9 that night so we got basically double everything that you see here. Side Street has a pretty extensive menu, but every time we go we always order pretty much the same things you see here. (With the exception of the sliders which are a special that I didn't order). They are just too good to give up to try something else instead.

NYC, Part 3

White Truffles shaved tableside. 3 different times. But we'll get to that in a bit.

After another late night on full stomachs that wouldn't allow us to wind down and sleep, CK and I ended up not making it out of his place until about 2 or 3PM the next day. No matter though, we would be going out for a three course dinner, we thought. On this trip, three courses would qualify as a light meal. Maybe we would grab a late night Gray's Papaya or something tonight and get the New York Street food experience.

So while walking around the neighborhood and doing about as much sightseeing as I would do on the entire trip, we ran into Magnolia Bakery. So I figured we could just stop in for a cupcake and some banana pudding and be on our way. It would get me out of the cold for 5 minutes or so anyway.

Pumpkin Spice Cupcake

Banana Pudding

Our real treat, though, was going to be our dinner at..........

Restaurant Daniel

What can I say? It is good to know people. In my case, it was really good to know someone that knows people. 

As soon as we arrived at Daniel we were escorted to the salon where we enjoyed our complimentary champagne and contemplated what we might be in store for. We came in thinking that we were only going to have three courses, I think we had 11 if you count the canapes. While I will remember this meal for the rest of my life, I don't really like to think about how much we ate. You can try and count the number of courses for yourself below. Just don't tell me the number.

We sat down at the banquette marveling at both the elegance and size of Daniel's recently remodeled dining room. The waiter came by our table and informed us that the only decision we would have to make for the night was the number of courses we wanted to eat.  We replied that we would leave it up to the kitchen to decide. I think that was the right answer. Like I said, it is good to know people that know people.

Trio of broccoli canape

Geoduck Cevice

From here CK and I were served courses 1x1. Meaning each course we each received a different item. Eager to try as much as we could on this trip, we would eat as close to half of the dish as possible and then pass the plate. Though, admittedly, we both found it hard to give up certain dishes.

Mosaic of Venison and Foie Gras ~ Juniper, Sweet and Sour Chestnuts

Game "Pate en Croute" with Foie Gras ~ Porcini, Lady Apple, Celery-Hazelnut salad

Nantucket Bay Scallop Ceviche ~ Blood Orange, Winter Point Oysters, Uni

Maine Peekytoe Crab ~ Fuju Apple, Celery Creme Fraiche, Hearts of Palm

Why does it seem like I eat more Big Island hearts of palm outside of Hawaii when I can't find it on a menu here? Beautiful product, grown in our backyard, used in restaurants with multiple Michelin Stars (including almost daily at The French Laundry and Per Se) and not prohibitively expensive to put on a menu. 

Florida Frogs Leg ~ Potato Gnocci, Watercress, Sweet and Black Garlic

Scottish Langoustine ~ Creamy Polenta, Fennel Confit, Piquillo Peppers

Already in a daze from the barrage of dishes coming one after the other. One of the many waiters that were attending to our every need asked if he could shave some white truffle on my next dish. I don't remember if I answered him clearly or simply let out an audible grunt, but the next thing I know this was in front of me.

Ouef Cocotte with White Truffle ~ Chantrelle, Watercress Coulis, Mouillette

And this was sitting infront of CK

Agnelotti with Fontina and White Truffle

Classic. Tableside service. At this point, I think the other people in the dining room must have been wondering who we were because no one else we saw got this dish.

This picture absolutely can't do this next dish justice. I was way to eager to eat it and my hand were already shaking in anticipation so no pictures of it came out clearly. As i was about to put fork to plate, the waiter showed up with our buddy, the white truffle.

Stuffed Whole Dover Sole ~ Salsify, Chicken Jus, Shaved White Truffle

Un-be-lievable......And that wasn't it. There was still more to go.

"Foie de Veau A la Moutarde" ~ Celery Crossus, Red Wine Braised Shallots

Crispy Calf Head ~ Endive, Chantrelle

First pigs face, now calf head. Does it get any better? Maybe.

More tableside service. 

Woodcock with cognac flambee ~ Spinach Subrique, Cippollini Onions, Pommes Boulangere

Plated. 

The intensely gamey meat and the thick, sticky jus from the plate and potatoes made this a bit difficult to eat so deep into our meal.

After our plates were cleared the waiter swooped with our stay of execution and informed us that it was the end the dinner portion of our meal. We were offered a cheese course, but fearing what kind of onslaught that would bring upon us, we politely passed. So they decided to send us two deserts each instead.

Pumpkin Biscuit ~ Cranberry Mousse, Cranberry Ice Cream

Huckleberry and Orange Vacherin ~ Lemon-Olive Oil Emulsion

Hazelnut Mousse with Gianduja ~ Salted Caramel Ice Cream

Chocolate Dacquoise with Rice Crispy ~ Lemon Curd, Dark Chocolate Ice Cream 

So much for an abbreviated dinner or late night snacks. This meal was so epic, it threw off our entire schedule for the rest of the week.