Monday, March 30, 2009

TWO

1). Sea Urchin/ Golden Osetra Caviar/ Hawaiian Vanilla

This is a great combination. I first experienced this working with Chef Ron Siegel. He makes a panna cotta out of Santa Barbara Sea Urchin and garnishes with lobster and avocado, finished with vanilla oil. He serves this as an amuse. Lucky guests huh? I have decided  to serve a lighter preparation. The sea urchin takes well to acid, so I will use ponzu and lime to heighten the ocean essence. The sea urchin will be seasoned with caviar and finished with vanilla. 

2). Hearts of Palm- 2 preparations

The hearts of palm from the Big Island is the best you can get. Why not showcase it in a salad. I will do two preparations with different garnishes. 

3). Toro- 2 preparations
Seared/ Cucumber Ribbons/ Goma Vinaigrette
Sashimi noodles/ Lemongrass/ Avocado

Who doesn't love toro? I have decided to use asian flavors for both preparation, but am showing the difference between raw and cooked. 

4). Egg
Slow Poached/ Hollandaise Mousseline/ Pork Belly
Soft Scramble/ Truffle Butter/ Sweetbreads

I love using eggs as a course in a tasting. They are not only delicious but also take well to many flavors. I have made this  bacon and eggs dish many times. It relies on the technique of "sous vide". I cure the pork belly for 1 day and then cook it under sous vide for 24 hours.  It comes out extremely tender and retains the beautiful pink color. The pork belly is then crisped and sliced.  The Egg is also cooked using the immersion circulator. It is cooked at a low temperature for two hours. It's a dream dish, because I really don't do anything. The dish is finished with a hollandaise. Tres classique! I put the hollandaise in a whip cream canister for a lighter and better mouthfeel. 

5). Abalone
"Grenobloise"
Pigs Feet/ lentils/ Sweet Garlic

The abalone comes from the Big Island. It's extremely tender , so I simply cook it in brown butter and aromatics. I love the combination of seafood with pork. I think anything with pig's feet is going to be very tasty. I will serve it with lentils seasoned with sherry vinegar and a sweet garlic puree. 

6). Kona Hirame

A few chefs from my restaurant took a tour of True World CO. We were able to view all the Japanese fish and seafood available. We used to use True World when I worked at Per Se, so I know the quality is great. I was inspired by the Hirame from the Big Island. I probably will roast it whole and keep it simple. 


7). Pasta
Agnolotti/ Peas/ Mint/ Ricotta/ Scallions

This is classic Thomas Keller. The famous agnolotti. I love making pasta so this dish celebrates the spring season. 

8). Foie Gras

Torchon/ maple syrup/ serrano ham/ rocket
Shaved/ pickled grapes/ candied peanuts

When I was younger, I used to order seared foie gras in every restaurant. I don't know if my taste have changed but I now prefer cold preparations. I love the technique of making torchon. I think it shows attention to detail and patience. The better you clean the foie gras lobes and the longer it hangs, the better the flavor and the cleaner the appearance.

9). "Black Truffle Explosion"

Because this tasting is for Hank, I will attempt to make my version of this famous dish by Chef Grant Achatz from Trio and now Alinea. 

10). Shortrib of Beef
48 hours/ Swiss chard/ Fried Bordelaise

The shortribs are cooked sous vide for 48 hours. It will be served simply with braised swiss chard and Sauce Bordelaise. 

ONE

Similar to Chef Grant Achatz of Alinea and Chef Laurent Gras of L2O, two chefs I have great respect and admiration for, I will be posting the evolution and planning of two tasting menu's that will be appear in the coming weeks.  I will be cooking for the kitchen brigade of Chef Mavro and a friend and highly decorated and respected restaurateur Hank Adaniya. 

As a young Chef, this is the greatest satisfaction. I love cooking for people who appreciate the technique and work that it takes to produce each element of a meal. These people are at the highest level. How could you not get excited to show your passion and background through the progression of a meal.

Should I create a menu that is heavily influenced by my previous mentors? Keller, Siegel, Yamaguchi? Or should I be inspired by the bounty of what Hawaii has to offer. What techniques can I utilize? What can I do that they haven't already seen?

I have decided to create a menu that includes as much products grown locally while taking inspiration from my experiences in New York and San Francisco.

1). Sea Urchin
2). Hearts of Palm
3). Toro
4). Egg
5). Abalone
6). Moi
7). Pasta
8). Foie Gras
9). "Black Truffle Explosion"
10). Shortrib of Beef


These are the products I have chosen for this grand degustation. I will be posting my ideas for the development of each dish.

ck

Monday, March 9, 2009

A Dream Degustation...

I am often asked where I had my best meal. I can never answer because I have had many memorable meals that have left a lasting impression, even now. So this would be my ideal tasting menu, though it's a bit extended. 


Amuse
Salmon Cornet. Red Onion Creme Fraiche, Sesame Tuile
The French Laundry

-Everyone has seen it, many have tasted it, it just makes you smile.

Sea Urchin Panna Cotta. Vanilla Oil. Lobster Tartare
The Dining Room at The Ritz Carlton, SF

-I first had this dish at Masa's when Chef Ron was there. I always remembered it.


First

Sashimi of Santa Barbara Spot Prawn. Yuzu Gelee. Fried Heads. Fresh Wasabi
The Dining Roon at The Ritz Carlton, SF

-We used to have a tank full of live spot prawns in the walk-in. The spot prawns were killed to order. Exceptional ingredients + restraint = amazing results


"Oysters and Pearls"
Per Se, NY

-I believe there are some dishes that cannot be improved upon. This is one of them.


Second

Artichoke Soup. Black Truffle. Parmaggiano
Guy Savoy, LV

-This is his dish. It is served with wild mushroom brioche and truffle butter. Need I say more.


Cold Smoked Ocean Trout. Quail Egg. Caviar
Tetsuya's. SYD

-This was a dish that I had hoped would never end.

Third

Asparagus Salad. Poached Egg. Sourdough Crisp
Alain Ducasse at The Essex House

- This was the first dish that opened my eyes to great cuisine. I was 18 years old and had never tasted anything so fresh, light and exciting. 

Tuna Ribbons. Avocado. Radish. Ginger Marinade
Jean George, NY

-This is a dish that reflects Jean George's food. Light and refined.

Fourth

Langoustine Ravioli, Cabbage. Langoustine Jus
    Joel Robuchon at The Mansion

- Tres Fantastique. 

Sea Urchin Capellini, Caviar
Le Bernadin, NY

-This was just ridiculous. I asked for more bread to finish the sauce.

Fifth

Toro Comparison
Sushi Yasuda, NY

- This was a flight of five different toro nigiri. From fatty to basically melting at room temperature.

Barely Cooked Salmon
          Le Bernadin, NY

- The piece of salmon was touched by heat. The waiter then drizzled a warm black truffle vinaigrette tableside.


Sixth

Monterey Bay Abalone. Pig Trotter. Brown Butter
Manresa, SF

-This is what surf and turf should be.

Black Truffle Stuffed Four Story Hill Poulard
Per Se, NY

-The best poulard stuffed with black truffle and roasted. Lights out.


Seventh

Kobe Beef. Spicy Mustard. Watercress Tempura
Joel Robuchon at The Mansion

- The best beef simple served with mustard and crispy watercress.


Katz's Pastrami Sandwich. Mustard. Rye Bread. Sour Pickle
    Katz's, NY

-If you had one, you would understand it's place on this list.


Eigth

Al's Italian Beef
Chicago

-Drowned in gravy, laced with peppers, side of fries, there is nothing better.

Chicago Dog "Dragged through the garden"
Hank's Haute Dog
Chez Helfer

-The best way to eat a hot dog with vienna beef. 

Ninth

Baba au Rum
Alain Ducasse at The Essex House

-Served with a cart of fine aged rums. You choose.

Blue Cheese and Vanilla Panna Cotta
Tetsuya's, SYD

     -His signature dessert, now I know why.






-