New York
There are now 5 restaurants rated three stars. Restaurant Daniel was recently awarded a long deserved third star and put in its rightful place amongst the best in the world. I had an incredible experience last winter with PH, filled with a duel degustation, short discourse with Daniel Boulud, visit from my sous-chef friend, seamless table service and classic food executed to perfection. Every three star meal should evoke some kind of emotion. This meal just made me happy to see the constant evolution of a legendary restaurant reborn.
Two Stars for Alto? Really. Did I have a great meal here? No. Was this the best Italian in the city? Not on it's best day. Did I have a solid meal? Yes. I have been to Babbo, Del Posto, L'impero (Scott Conant) and Felidia. Never once in this meal did I feel like there were reaching new heights in Italian cooking or cooking pasta better than Lupa.
Congratulations to Per se, Jean Georges, Daniel, Masa and Le Bernadin. Indeed worth a special journey.
San Francisco
The French Laundry remains the sole three star restaurants in the bay area. Justified? Absolutely. It was surprising to see that Michael Mina lost its two star status with Chef Chris L'hommedieu at the helm. It was not surprising to see that Aqua lost it's stars. The last time Aqua played in the big leagues was in it's heyday with Michael Mina, George Morrone and Ron Siegel.
I have been telling people since the inception of the Michelin Guide San Francisco that Manresa would challenge the French Laundry as the top restaurant in the bay area. This was not their year, but mark my words they will be the next three star. It would have been interesting to see what the restaurant would have received if Chef James Syabout stayed on as Chef de Cuisine for another year.
Cyrus- 2 Stars
I had an extremely inconsistent meal here. I can see the ambition for three stars but can't imagine them reaching the execution and refinement of the worlds best.
Coi- 2 Stars
I went all out. I told the chef to cook for me. As many courses as he had. Single dinner in a dining room full of couples. I wanted to be blown away. I wanted to work here. I respect the chef. On this night, I didn't understand it. On this night, the 15 cooks didn't "wow" me. On this night, I was disappointed because I knew my search for the next restaurant would continue.
Manresa- 2 Stars
Every time I eat there, I remember a dish that moves me in its simplicity or its restraint. I think Chef David Kinch runs an amazing kitchen with his devotion for the best ingredients from the restaurants garden. Was I moved by the French Laundry? No. I am every time I dine at Manresa.
Dining Room at The Ritz Carlton- 1 Star
My favorite Chef and restaurant. This rating for me is personal. Justified? No way. Will it ever change? No. With the dragging economy, the hotel has decided to consolidate a lot of the food operations making the food at the Dining Room a lot less ambitious. When I was there over three years ago, we had an amazing team. We didn't have the brigade of Per se or the stagiere from Ramsay or Ducasse, but we had a close knit team with a wealth of experience and talent. Did we do three star food? On many nights, yes we did. Is it possible to do it consistently when there is one person to control a whole station, prep and execution. No way. If we had a full brigade of commis, stagiere and chef de partie then this would be possible for the food we executed. But Chef Ron loves to have a small, close knit and personal kitchen. A kitchen where we eat together, sweat together and drink as one. A kitchen where the actual chef is cooking alongside you, having fun and laughing while were in the "shits". I will never forget this experience. It has shaped me into the cook I am today and continues to inspire the way I hope to run my brigade.
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