Tuesday, July 7, 2009

one cook, a few burners, four walls and a counter

I recently had dinner at a very well-known, highly financed restaurant with the chef of Roy's. One diner ordered the chef's tasting menu and we ordered a bunch of appetizers and two entrees. The prices were steep, but the level of service and ingredients justified them. The kitchen is absolutely beautiful, spacious and high-tech. Every possible equipment is at the kitchen's disposal, yet fundamental execution was lacking. The use of salt and simple refinement would have brought a poor meal to the level of a decent one. With all this equipment, a full staff a big money investor, what's going wrong? 

My dream is simple 20 seats at a counter, one sous-chef, one morning assistant and a dishwasher. The menu would change daily offering a chef's tasting and a vegetable tasting. I cook for you. I hand you the plates and I explain what went into deciding the menu for that moment. No fancy furniture, basic equipment and a few friends would cook with me. Dining is not the fancy 5-hour table-service, maitre'd laden experience anymore. Dining needs to be more accessible, more personal. Cooking can be soulful, but with perfect execution and refinement. Hopefully this dream can come to fruition in Hawaii. I think Hawaii is ready, hopefully they are ready for my dream.

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